Painted on the walls of the 12-seater sushi-ya, the Kawasemi is an azure-blue Japanese Kingfisher that best represents the arrival of summer in Japanese culture. And just like the mercurial hunter, the itamae (head chef) at Sushi Kawasemi procures the freshest seasonal ingredients from Japan four times a week via close connections to auction bidders. Here, the tradition of Edomae sushi is honoured with precision right down to every detail – you won’t even find a fingerprint on a lacquered surface.
The theme of the meal centres around umami. This is achieved through the practice of custom fish ageing techniques that are executed with plenty of finesse – the itamae will employ jukusei (wet-ageing) or ichiyaboshi (dry-ageing) depending on the type of fish. A quick sushi lunch is priced at $98 while a comprehensive dinner experience starts from $268.
Jukusei breaks down enzymes and fibres in the fish, removes moisture and retains the fats which results in increased tenderness without losing a firm bite. It also involves marinating the fish in salt, soy sauce or wrapped in kelp. Our nine-day wet-aged nodoguro (black throat sea perch) is gently seared for a pleasant tinge of smoke and paired with a zesty homemade yuzu kosho. It eats tender yet firm to bite with dramatic umami.
Shiromi (white-fleshed fish) is often tasteless when eaten fresh but when wet-aged for a minimum of three to five days, the excessive connective tissues start to break down resulting in a softer waxier bite – often accompanied by sweet and savoury flavours. Featured in the nigiri selection, our aged ishigaki-dai (spotted knifejaw) and isaki (three-line grunt) are both lean in texture but eat delicate with pleasant savouriness.
Fattier cuts such as the prized otoro (tuna belly) are dry-aged to further accentuate the flavours of their fats. At Sushi Kawasemi, the itamae has found the sweet spot to be exactly 18 days. The result is an ambrosial bite unlike any other where sweet and umami sensations tango on our taste buds.
Besides the deft display of fish ageing, the sushi-ya also showcases a wide range of cooking techniques in the form of its starters. From sake-laced soup bejewelled with plump hamaguri clams to mouth-watering charcoal grilled eel with creamy fermented leek sauce, a meal at Sushi Kawasemi promises dedication to quality and craftsmanship to each gastronome.
