The rainbow freedom flags festooned around the terrace at The Waratah remind those visiting Sydney for its annual Mardi Gras that they will be warmly welcomed here. The newly renovated bar is just a few feather boa lengths from the main parade route, where revellers take to the streets each year to celebrate gay pride.
But it’s not just the LGBTQI+ community The Waratah pays its respects to. The menu reads like a love letter to Australian producers, with multiple pages of its menu dedicated to a revolving list of hero producers that change with the seasons. The two-storey terrace has been given a very careful nip and tuck that is in line with its 1950s heritage. It’s the first venue for Pollen Hospitality co-founders Cynthia Litster and Evan Stroeve (Australian Bartender of the year 2021 and ex-Bulletin Place, The Baxter Inn, Re and Shady Pines), who already have their eye on a second venue in the CBD.
A table on the terrace at The ’Tah, as it’s affectionately known, is considered prime real estate for people-watching long after the last of Mardi Gras’ dancing queens have dispersed. The Waratah’s proximity to St Vincent’s Hospital makes it a popular place for emergency responders and medics to meet up after work. Oxford St and the Australian Museum are also nearby and both are brimming with tourists, who make up a major part of Darlinghurst’s colourful fabric.
The striking space designed by Farago Han Studio (Atlas Bar, Singapore; Time Hotel, New York) features everything from reclaimed street signage to gumleaf-green banquettes and a ceiling mural by local artist Sarah McCloskey. The brief to Farago Han Studio was to create ‘a home away from home’ put through a ‘distorted filter of imperfect recollection’. The result is a nostalgic celebration of the Australian landscape with the organic shapes of plant pods and leaf profiles informing everything from the gentle curves of the main bar to the custom light fixtures by Volker Haug and amber-lit installations threaded through the design.
The branding is based on a botanical drawing of the waratah by Stroeve’s artist mum Wendy and ties the venue back to Pollen Hospitality’s core tenets: to focus on seasonality, native ingredients and a connection with growers. The fact NSW’s floral emblem is embossed onto the cover of the wine list is one of many reminders that the venue is anchored to the Australian landscape and its many producers.
The Waratah is not just an ode to Australiana classics such as fairy bread and big-old burgers. In fact, what the ‘Tah does best is focus intently on a region. I’m delighted that this month’s menu draws inspiration from the Daintree in Tropical North Queensland – where I’m from – and that it includes ingredients foraged by First Nations suppliers.
While downstairs is mostly full of plaid-clad moustachioed men, upstairs is a mix of couples and flatmates who see the ‘Tah as an extension of their living room. In addition to the dimly lit dining room, there’s a terrace and enclosed rooftop area which has a louvred awning system that, like the food and drinks menu, is angled to suit the season.
Downstairs is definitely the place to go for burgers and beers. Upping the ante upstairs is chef Lewin White (ex-Bondi Icebergs Dining Room and Bar, Quay, Re and Bistro Moncur) who riffs on an Aussie classic with an entrée of lamb cutlets slathered with a fragrant mint pesto designed to dredge through a rich and flavourful chicken jus. The raw albacore tuna with radish, and marjoram is very pretty on the plate: it pops with citrusy bursts of finger lime, succulent saltbush and translucent circles of radish. White also leans into his memories of late nights spent at Golden Century with a plate of delicate steamed barramundi and pippis spiked with ginger in an umami-rich XO sauce.
Stroeve is a master craftsman. He takes the humble Negroni and tweaks it according to the seasons. In this case, he gives it a welcome rainforest twist with the Cacao & Cherry. Made up of local gin, cherries (including one which looks pretty sitting on a cube of ice) and a wine derived from Daintree cacao, the result has hints of chocolate and ripe fruit. It tastes like someone who knows exactly what they're doing. Stroeve takes a lot of pride in curating his drinks list and is already sourcing ingredients from the next region in focus (helloooooo Hunter Valley). The wine list is exclusively Australian and visitors to the 'Tah can also enjoy the signature Spritz on tap made with Archie Rose Vodka, Rhubi Mistelle (an Australian-made aperitif brand established by Stroeve), watermelon wine and vanilla.
Dessert is another nod to nostalgia. We forgo the fairy bread ice-cream sandwich in favour of the Daintree Vanilla flan with amaro and a poor man’s (heritage) orange caramel. Talk about flan-tastic. The dessert veers toward savoury rather than sweet, sprinkled as it is with vanilla salt reused from the pods used to infuse the cocktails. As well as adding flavour, the addition of the vanilla highlights the kitchen’s commitment to working in a cyclical nature. Like everything at The ‘Tah, there are surprises at every turn with the use of ingredients that tell a story about Australia’s diverse food scene. Whether you end up tucking into burgers at the bar downstairs or sharing the Westholme mbs5+ Wagyu rump cap with Diane sauce, you’ll end up joining locals in giving thanks for The ‘Tah and the bounty it celebrates.